
I’d been a raw milk drinker for years. Yet I hadn’t expected to respond so negatively to the glass of Horizon organic milk my friend poured for me. After all, that’s what I’d drunk for years before making the switch to raw milk from grass-fed cows.
“Yuck. This tastes burnt!” I said.
That’s when I saw it. The milk had been ultra-high temperature pasteurized. In fact, more than 80% of the organic milk sold in the U.S. is UHT pasteurized. It’s why I don’t drink organic milk.
What is UHT Milk?
The official U.S. government definition of an ultra-pasteurized dairy product stipulates “such product shall have been thermally processed at or above 280° F for at least 2 seconds, either before or after packaging, so as to produce a product which has an extended shelf life.”
Get this. According to Wikipedia, UHT milk has a shelf life of 6 to 9 months (until opened). When the world’s foremost UHT milk processor, Parmalat, first introduced UHT milk to the U.S. market back in 1993, they hit a snag. Americans distrust milk that hasn’t been refrigerated. We like our milk cold, and UHT milk doesn’t need to be refrigerated.
So, milk producers got creative. They could extend the shelf life of their product and not advertise that they were doing it. They’d sell the milk in normal packaging, in the refrigerator aisle, and none of us would be the wiser.
Now, almost all of the organic milk and the majority of conventional milk available in U.S. supermarkets is UHT processed.
What’s wrong with UHT processing?
The introduction to a 2005 study published in the Journal of Dairy Science highlighted the current problems with UHT processing from an industry point of view:
Often, heat treatment causes milkfat globule membrane proteins and whey proteins to unfold such that buried sulfhydryl (-SH-) groups, normally masked in the native protein, are exposed to the outer surfaces (Hoffmann and van Mill, 1997). In turn, these processes produce extreme cooked flavors, often attributed to changes in the sulfhydryl and disulfide content of the protein fraction (Swaisgood et al., 1987). Conventional pasteurization methods have long been in place and with the advent of UHT technology, the sterilization of fluid milk was achieved using higher temperature treatments for shorter periods. However, shelf-stable milk has met with limited acceptability by the consumer, especially in the United States, due in part to a high cooked flavor. Several attempts to improve the quality of UHT-treated milk products proved successful to varying degrees. Previously, Swaisgood and coworkers used immobilized sulfhydryl oxidase to reduce the thiol content of UHT-heated skim milk and described an improved flavor after enzymatic oxidation to form protein disulfide bonds (Swaisgood et al., 1987). Other studies have showed that altering UHT processing parameters, such as indirect vs. direct steam injection systems, cooling rates, and long-term storage conditions have a significant impact on sensory attributes (Browning et al., 2001). Most recently, epicatechin, a flavonoid compound, was added to UHT milk prior to heating, and the results revealed partial inhibition of thermally generated cooked aroma (Colahan-Sederstrom and Peterson, 2005).
So for decades, UHT processors have known that UHT processed milks results in a “high cooked flavor,” and they’ve done all kinds of experimenting to get rid of the nasty taste and smell (even resorting to adding flavonoid compounds to the milk to try to negate the off-flavor).
Okay, so it tastes funny compared to raw milk. And maybe it smells funny too. But what makes UHT processing any worse than regular old pasteurization?
According to Lee Dexter, microbiologist and owner of White Egret Farm goat dairy in Austin, Texas, ultra-pasteurization is an extremely harmful process to inflict on the fragile components of milk. Dexter explains that milk proteins are complex, three-dimensional molecules, like tinker toys. They are broken down and digested when special enzymes fit into the parts that stick out. Rapid heat treatments like pasteurization, and especially ultra-pasteurization, actually flatten the molecules so the enzymes cannot do their work. If such proteins pass into the bloodstream (a frequent occurrence in those suffering from “leaky gut,” a condition that can be brought on by drinking processed commercial milk), the body perceives them as foreign proteins and mounts an immune response. That means a chronically overstressed immune system and much less energy available for growth and repair. (source)
Now, that’s scary. No wonder more and more people are starting to think of themselves as intolerant to casein (the protein found in milk). Not only do pasteurization and UHT processing kill off the enzymes present in milk needed to digest the casein, the casein itself is altered to the point of being indigestible!
Now consider this: you cannot make yogurt or kefir out of UHT milk, it is simply too dead to hold a culture. If a product will not support microscopic life, it is not likely to support human life. (source)
So now you know why I don’t buy organic milk at the store — even when I run out of raw milk. If you want more help deciding how to prioritize your milk purchases, check out this post on Healthy Milk: What To Buy.
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Are you casein intolerant? You should read this! RT @FoodRenegade: What’s wrong with UHT milk: http://su.pr/ARJBZT
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I started buying raw milk about a year ago so I could make cheese. DH mentioned last night that ever since he started drinking raw milk he hasn’t had any IBS issues. Wow! I’m starting to become a believer.
Wendy (The Local Cook)´s last blog post …5 Reasons Why My Blog Rocks
Wendy,
That really doesn’t surprise me. I’ve heard similar things from just about everyone who’s started drinking raw milk. Obviously, some people really ARE lactose or casein intolerant — particularly if they’re from non-dairy herding ancestry. But the rest of us can probably do dairy just fine, so long as it’s in its natural state.
Ultra-pasteurized milk – a deader than dead product http://www.foodrenegade.com/just-say-no-to-uht-milk/#more-1639
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Deader than dead! I like that.
What’s wrong with organic milk? Something you may not know, but should consider: http://su.pr/ARJBZT (RT @FoodRenegade)
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Reading @foodrenegade Just Say No To UHT Milk http://tinyurl.com/yzy5jhc
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Details about why ultra-pasteurization is bad news: http://bit.ly/ceQPkZ
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I searched high and low for a milk that we could drink since we are allergic to corn. You might think the two things are unrelated, but even organic milk uses GMO corn as a vitamin carrier for the added vitamin D. Once I realized that the nonfortified milk is ultra-pasteurized, I gave up. I, too, believe that UHT milk is dead. In fact, I don’t believe it qualifies as edible food any more. Until I can find a source for raw milk, I will continue to do the only thing that works for us and that is substitute Daisy full fat sour cream plus water for milk in recipes and just drink water. After all, it is corn-free, full fat, and readily available. (I would like to use whole milk yogurt but there is nothing but nonfat and lowfat in my stores. I guess that’s another whole can of worms, isn’t it? I sometimes wonder if we will starve having to rely on what little actual food is sold in the grocery store until the farmer’s market starts up again.)
kc´s last blog post …GMOs in Pasture Raised Meat
Kc — Have you ever considered watering down cream and using that as a drink (that’s something I once heard Sally Fallon Morrell recommend)? Or any of these healthy homemade milk substitutes?
Reading @foodrenegade Just Say No To UHT Milk http://tinyurl.com/yzy5jhc
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I raise Kinder dairy goats simply because I wanted a source of fresh raw milk for my family to drink. I make raw milk yogurt and ice cream, and hope to make lots of cheese this year. It’s a sad day around here when I have to dry my girls off and go back to “store” milk. Hopefully this year I’ll be able to milk one of the girls through so I don’t have to drink the other junk. Even though what we drink isn’t UHT, it’s still nasty stuff. The problem here in Illinois is that you can’t legally sell raw milk. What a crock of crud, but it’s true.
Even when we “have” to drink the pasteurized stuff, we still have a few options. There’s a local dairy that gently pasteurizes their milk and doesn’t homogenize it. We can pick it up at either the Farmer’s Market or a couple local health-food stores. I also know of a couple of brands of pasteurized, homogenized milk that comes from grass-fed cows and ISN’T UHT processed (if you’re really desperate). Also, have you contacted your local Weston A Price chapter leader? It’s possible that there’s a nearby herdshare arrangement where you can get raw milk by buying a share of a cow. Anyhow, you’re lucky to have goats!
what’s wrong with milk? it doesn’t even need to be refrigerated- that’s what. http://su.pr/ARJBZT #fb
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In ways you have to be a renegade today. Look what happened to the Great American Indians. The guys with the guns win. This is not always so. Industrialized food has been their gun for along time ad we were forced fed these industrialized foods for many years without knowing all the facts. Now we have internet and this real good foods movement is rolling along. All the emotionally intelligent have come out of the closet or just now able to step up to the plates. Now is time to start hitting home runs.
We have a good read for you to demonstrate how we feel about these subjects you write about. we are milkmen and we like David Gumpert’s new book;
“THE RAW MILK REVOLUTION – Behind America’s Emerging Battle Over Food Rights.”
Read this and follow through with some of his suggestions or just make plans. There are a whole “lotta” good things to learn from this book. We did and we thank Mr. Gumpert for writing this book.
The Milkman is Back!
Milkmen USA
Thanks. Remember, cream floats on top, the rest go to the middle and bottom. And no problem with that as long as the good stuff stays on top.
Ed — Yay. I’ve already read and reviewed the Raw Milk Revolution for my readers. You can find the link here:
http://www.foodrenegade.com/the-raw-milk-revolution/
Not only does this stuff taste like crap, it is often adulterated with thickeners because it is so damaged that the mouthfeel is wrong.
I have heard that it is because of the UHT that expiration dates on organic milk are so much farther out than regular milk.
My question though is where do I find a raw milk supplier? Thanks!
Jennifer´s last blog post …I ordered my seeds!
Jennifer — The best place to start looking for milk is by contacting your local Weston A Price chapter leader. They’ll know. Otherwise, you can check out the very limited listings at http://www.realmilk.com and ask around at your local farmer’s markets.
Hope that helps!
~Kristen
Another reason to pass on Horizon Organics is that they are owned by Dean Foods, which recently acquired Silk soy milk and pulled a dubious bait and switch on its consumers and retailers:
http://greens-n-grains.com/?p=85
I was looking for milk for my daughter when we were visiting my parents in the States over Christmas (they only have skim conventional in the house…bleh!) and was shocked that I could only find UHT stuff! Here in Cananda I’ve never seen UHT organic milk. I went to the fancy grocery store and really poked around and managed to find some full-fat, cream-top milk that was not UHT. We didn’t even come close to drinking all of it in the couple days we were there, but my dad commented after we left that he drank the rest of it and it was the best milk he had tasted in a long, long time. They still don’t believe me that it’s good for you, too.
I’ve been making yogurt for the last 3 years using UHT milk. It works fine. Indeed, it’s incredibly convenient to not have to pasteurize the milk yourself… I like it better than commercial yogurt. I agree with much of the Weston Price philosophy in principle, but their article about UHT (which finds its way into articles such as yours) is just plain wrong, and maybe even intentionally misleading.
I’ll leave it to you to decide whether or not you think UHT is good or not. But, without a doubt, you can make fine yogurt with it. Thousands (millions?) of people do. I use Yogourmet yogurt starter or just propogate the culture from previous batches.
Wow, I didn’t realise all the milk you guys get in America is UHT. In europe, refridgerated milk is ‘fresh’, and UHT is on non-refrifgerated shelves.
BTW, I agree UHT tastes bad, but it’s not true you can’t use it for yoghurt, i works fine, if anything a little richer than fresh milk.
Please note who attacks UHT milk…those who compete with this technology. There is nothing wrong with UHT milk products even those products that use radiation preservation I am not in the milk industry and have no vested interest on either side. Those who state UHT is bad and suggest its not good for our health are liars. When these farmers who attack such products go into this area themselves they will sing a different tune. UHT is find, I have been drinking it for years and in some cases its better for those who have issues with other milk products. There are many papers stating its a solid and logical way to distribute milk.